Crop Rotation
You should never grow vegetables of the same type in exactly the same place year after year. If you do, then soil-living pests and diseases which thrive in the crop will steadily increase, and could reach epidemic proportions. Also, growing the same crop may lead to soil nutrient levels to become unbalanced. In due course the crops will suffer, almost to the point that they are hardly worth the effort. Most veg prefers to grow on land that has been used for a completely different crop, rather than live in soil used by one of their own kind. So, crop rotation has to be the answer. The standard three-year plan is explained here, but there are four and five-year options as well. It is certainly worth spending a few minutes to grasp the concept of crop rotation. Your vegetable harvest will be all the better for it.
Digging
For best results dig over the entire veg plot each year, preferably in autumn so that the winter weather can help to break up the clods of soil. Remove perennial weeds as you go. Once every three years it is wise to carry out double digging, dig a trench one spade's blade deep, barrowing the soil to the other end of the plot. Then fork over the base of the trench to break up the subsoil. Work across the plot in the same ray, and fill the final trench with the soil from the first. |
Manuring
Manure is important to add whilst digging if the soil is 'hungry' (sandy and 'thin'). If the soil is in a reasonably good condition, and is fertile, manure only the part of the plot that is to grow those veg listed 'Others'. Well-rotted garden compost can be used instead. Note that both manure and compost is detrimental to the growing of root crops. Apply 10lb (4.5kg) per sq. yd. |
Liming
Only add lime if you are certain that the soil is neutral-to-acidic in nature, and only add lime in advance of growing brassicas. Do not add lime at the same time as adding manure because they react chemically with one another. Sprinkle lime over a freshly dug part of the plot; do not dig it in to the soil. It is better to use ground limestone rather than hydrated lime. |
Three Year Rotation
In simple terms, take your vegetable plot and divide it into three. In the first year the following crops should be grown in the relative thirds:
1st Third
BRASSICAS
Members of the brassica family - choose from broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, cauliflower’s, kale and oriental greens, as well as the lesser known brassicas such as kohl rabi, radishes, swedes and turnips. |
2nd Third
ROOTS
The second third should be given over to root crops (beetroot, carrots, parsnips) or tuber crops (such as Jerusalem artichokes and potatoes). None of these have a high need for nitrogen, so are perfect for following brassicas - which can deplete a soil of this element. |
3rd Third
OTHERS
In the final third there should be all of the 'fruiting' vegetables - predominantly the pea and bean family as well as aubergines, peppers, tomatoes and sweet corn. Also included in this plot should be the members of the onion family, and leafy and stem vegetables such as lettuce, spinach, celery and leaf beet |
Four Year Rotation
Some gardeners prefer to adopt a four-year rotation regime. This is where the vegetable plot is divided into quarters with each section moving on one place each year. In four and five year plans potatoes are not generally considered to be root crops. The most appropriate crops for the sections are as follows:
1st quarter: Brassica's
2nd quarter: Peas and beans
3rd quarter: Potatoes and fruiting vegetables
4th quarter: The onion family and root vegetables
1st quarter: Brassica's
2nd quarter: Peas and beans
3rd quarter: Potatoes and fruiting vegetables
4th quarter: The onion family and root vegetables
Five Year Rotation
Expert vegetable gardeners often choose to adopt a five year rotation. This is more suited to very large kitchen gardens or an allotment. Arguably it is the best of any of the rotation plans, as it means that five years pass before any one crop is grown again in the same place. The vegetable plot is divided into fifths, with each section moving on one place each year.
1st fifth: Brassica's
2nd fifth: Peas and beans
3rd fifth: Potatoes and fruiting vegetables
4th fifth: The onion family
5th fifth: Root vegetables
1st fifth: Brassica's
2nd fifth: Peas and beans
3rd fifth: Potatoes and fruiting vegetables
4th fifth: The onion family
5th fifth: Root vegetables
Non Critical Crops
It is not so important to rotate courgettes, marrow’s and squashes, nor the leafy salad vegetables. These may all be slotted in as part of any rotation group.
Permanent Crops
An area of the veg plot, preferably at one end can be used for permanent crops (asparagus, rhubarb, strawberries, and so on). It is left out of rotation plans.